Audemars Piguet

Perhaps this is an opportune time to review AP's Cermet...

 

Present day, it is pretty common to see a wide variety of materials used in watchmaking.  Gone are the days of just using steel and precious metals on watches, although already it is becoming somewhat "retro" for a brand to turn back to the nobility of those stalwarts. 

Staying on track, one material most brands have embraced the past few years is ceramic.  We have seen it in different colors, used as cases, bezels, crowns and pushers, etc.  AP is no different, and has successfully featured the material on a variety of pieces.

But they also introduced and began using a new material called "Cermet", a word derived from combining "ceramic" and "metal".  AP first showed us this material on a very limited run of 10 special pieces associated with the Pride of Mexico Limited Edition in late 2010.  Here is a photo from DRMW, showing Cermet as the bezel on this watch:

The material became somewhat more widely available with the introduction of the Jarno Trulli Offshore, also in late 2010.  This 500 piece Limited Edition, created to celebrate the brand's partnership with the Italian race car driver, featured a Cermet bezel atop a forged carbon case.

For fans of greyscale, like myself , this material is an aesthetic homerun.  The color can really change in different lighting and vary from a lighter grey to a darker, smoky color.

A few facts from the Manufacture regarding Cermet:
- 7 times more durable than steel
- "almost scratchproof"
- composite material comprised of ceramics and metal
- 1450 rating on the Vickers hardness scale
- Deep grey color
- Resistant to shocks, temperature, and corrosion.

So what about in real life?

Well, as used as an Offshore bezel, I find it amazing.  The mirror polish achieved on the angled bezel sidewalls is spectacular.  In my opinion, this material has a much livelier look on the wrist than ceramic, while being discreet at the same time.  An amazing combination.

Scratch resistant?  Well, I have never taken a fork to the bezel ala our own Foversta, but the material has proved completely scratch-proof under ordinary wear.  I expect this superb resistance will be readily apparent over time on the edges of the bezel, which are always perfectly crisp from the factory on all new APs.  As a big fan of the older 25770 steel cases, you really see those same edges round a bit over time.

And while the mix with metal might not make it as difficult to scratch as a full ceramic, it certainly will not be as brittle.  Over the years, I have seen ceramic watches from various brands posted with cracked or chipped parts.  I do not anticipate nor have heard of that happening with AP's Cermet.

In conclusion, Cermet is an absolutely beautiful, high tech material, perfectly suited to watchmaking.  And it certainly fits the AP core values, especially the last ones - Tradition, Excellence, and Daring.

 

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